Construction
Half canvas standard
Measured
Fifteen points
Fittings
At least one
Cloth
Chosen by weight
Women’s Trousers Tailored, Chiang Mai: women’s trousers fail off the rack for a specific reason: sizing assumes a fixed waist-to-hip ratio, so trousers that fit the hip gape at the back of the waist. Having them made lets both be fitted independently, and lets the rise be set to your torso rather than to a fashion cycle.
Women’s Trousers Tailored, Chiang Mai: the ratio problem
Women’s trouser sizing assumes a fixed relationship between waist and hip. One number on the label is expected to describe both.
If your waist-to-hip difference is greater than the chart’s assumption, trousers that fit your hips will stand away from the small of your back. If it is smaller, trousers that fit your waist will strain across the hip and thigh.
The universal workaround is to buy for the hip and have the waistband taken in. This works poorly, because pulling in the waist drags the side seams out of vertical, so the trousers begin to twist as you walk and the pockets gape.
A drafted pattern takes both measurements as they are. That is the entire advantage and it is a substantial one.
Rise, on your terms
Rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband, and it determines where the trousers actually sit.
Ready-made rises follow fashion cycles rather than bodies. When low rises dominate, everyone with a longer torso is uncomfortable; when high rises dominate, the reverse.
Having trousers made removes you from that cycle. A mid to high rise sitting at the natural waist is more comfortable seated, keeps a tucked top from pulling out, and gives a longer leg line under a jacket. If you prefer lower, that is available too, and it will actually stay up because it was cut for you.
The seat
Diagonal pull lines under the seat are the second most common complaint, and they are a pattern problem rather than a size problem.
They mean the trousers were cut for a flatter seat than yours, so the fabric is being stretched across a curve it was not shaped for. Letting out the waist does nothing, because the shortage is in the back rise and the seat curve.
Adding depth there solves it, and it is a routine adjustment when the garment is drafted rather than bought.
Cloth
Wool crepe is excellent for women’s tailored trousers. It recovers from creasing across the lap better than a smooth flat weave, holds a defined line, and drapes cleanly.
Lightweight worsted works well and is the natural choice if the trousers are part of a suit. Cotton and cotton blends suit warmer, more relaxed trousers.
See the fabric guide for weights suitable to this climate.
Bring the shoes
Hem length is set from the shoe, and heel height changes it more for women’s trousers than for men’s. If you intend to wear one pair with both flats and heels, say so, and we will find a compromise length or discuss a slight flare that carries both.
Next step
Walk in, or send your dates and we will tell you honestly what fits in the time you have.
Fabric
Cloth that suits it
Weight decides whether you will actually wear it. Ask for grams, not a Super number.
Worsted wool
Mid-grey worsted is the single most useful trouser anyone can own as a separate.240–260 g
Cotton twill
Chinos. Lighter weights breathe; heavier ones hold a crease and soften over years.230–300 g
Explore
Related
Women's tailoring
Made-to-measure womenswear in Chiang Mai: suits, blouses, dresses, skirts, blazers and trousers fitted to your own proportions, not a size chart.
Women's suits
Made-to-measure women's suits in Chiang Mai. Jackets that close over the bust without gaping, and trousers or skirts fitted independently.
Custom trousers
Tailored trousers made to your measurements in Chiang Mai. Rise, taper and break set to you. Cut for how you sit, not only how you stand.
Common questions
Why do my trousers gape at the back of the waist?
Because your waist-to-hip difference is larger than the size chart assumes. Trousers cut to fit your hip then have too much room at the waist, and the excess sits at the small of the back. Taking in the waistband alone distorts the side seams, so the correct fix is a pattern drafted to both measurements.
What rise should women's trousers have?
Whatever suits your torso and how you want to wear them, which is exactly the point of having them made. A mid to high rise sits at the natural waist, is more comfortable seated, works better under a fitted top and gives a longer leg line. Low rises depend on a specific body shape to sit securely.
Can trousers be made to fit over a fuller seat?
Yes, and it is a common adjustment. Diagonal pull lines under the seat mean the pattern was cut for a flatter shape than yours. Adding depth through the back rise and seat solves it properly, where letting the waist out does not.
What length should tailored trousers be?
Set from the shoes you will wear with them, which is why you should bring them. A full-length trouser with a slight break suits most heels and flats within a small range, but a significant heel change needs its own hem.
Next step
Book a fitting
Walk in, or tell us when you are in Chiang Mai and we will hold a slot. First fittings take about 45 minutes.