Custom trousers

Custom Trousers, Chiang Mai: rise is the whole game

If trousers are uncomfortable, the rise is almost always why.

Rise is the distance from the crotch seam up to the top of the waistband, and it decides where the trousers actually sit. Ready-made trousers have trended toward a low rise for two decades, which suits a narrow range of bodies and fights everyone else. The waistband ends up sitting on the widest part of the hip rather than in the natural hollow above it, so it slides down, and the seat pulls the moment you sit.

A drafted trouser sets the rise to your torso. It is unglamorous and it is the single biggest comfort difference between tailored and ready-made trousers.

Cut for sitting

Most people spend more of the day sitting in trousers than standing in them, and most trousers are fitted standing in front of a mirror.

At a fitting we will ask you to sit down. That is when a too-tight seat, a thigh cut too close, and a waistband that gapes at the back become obvious. A trouser that looks immaculate standing and cuts into you sitting is a failed garment however good the cloth is.

Taper and leg line

The leg line is a matter of proportion rather than fashion.

A gentle taper from knee to hem suits most people. A heavy taper looks aggressive and dates quickly. A completely straight leg reads as more traditional and works well with heavier cloths.

What matters more than the number is consistency with the jacket. A very slim trouser under a generously cut jacket looks unbalanced, and the reverse looks worse.

Waist finish

Side adjusters give a clean waistband with nothing interrupting the line, which matters if the trousers are worn with a waistcoat or under a buttoned jacket.

Belt loops are more flexible for daily wear and let you adjust across a wider range.

Pleats add room through the hip and thigh without adding bulk at the waist. They suit fuller thighs and heavier cloths, and forward-facing pleats are the classic choice.

Break, decided with the right shoes

Bring the shoes. This is the most common avoidable mistake in the whole process.

Hem length is set from the top of the shoe, and a dress shoe and a trainer differ by enough to change the break entirely. A trouser hemmed over trainers looks short over a dress shoe, and a trouser hemmed over a dress shoe puddles over a trainer.

A slight break, meaning one soft fold at the front, is the safe answer for most people.

Cloth for the climate

Lightweight worsted wool is the workhorse for tailored trousers and breathes better than most people expect. Cotton and cotton-linen blends work well for chinos and warmer weather. Full details in the fabric guide, and see blazers for what to wear them with.