Construction
Half canvas standard
Measured
Fifteen points
Fittings
At least one
Cloth
Chosen by weight
Summer Suit, Chiang Mai: a summer suit is defined by cloth weight and weave rather than by colour. An open-weave worsted wool between roughly 220 and 250 grams breathes nearly as well as linen while holding its shape all day and recovering overnight. Unlined or half-lined construction removes a second layer and makes more difference to comfort than most people expect.
Summer Suit, Chiang Mai: weight and weave, not colour
Most people choose a summer suit by colour and then wonder why they are still uncomfortable.
Colour has some effect: a light cloth reflects more radiant heat than a dark one. But the two variables that actually determine whether a suit is bearable in heat are how heavy the cloth is and how open the weave is.
An open-weave tropical wool at around 240 grams lets air pass through the cloth. A tightly woven worsted at the same weight does not. Both may look similar folded on a table, and they behave completely differently at two in the afternoon in April.
Wool is a summer fibre
The association of wool with winter is a habit rather than a fact.
Wool wicks moisture away from the skin and releases it into the air, which is precisely what you want when you are perspiring. It also recovers from creasing overnight, holds a press, and returns to shape on a hanger, none of which linen does.
The reason wool has a reputation for heat is that most wool people encounter is heavy: suiting in the 300 gram range, flannels, coating. Those are genuinely warm cloths. A tropical worsted is a different animal.
Take the lining out
This is the change with the best comfort-per-baht ratio in the whole order, and it costs nothing in appearance.
A fully lined jacket has a complete second layer of fabric across the back and torso. A half-lined jacket keeps lining across the shoulders and upper back, where the garment needs to slide on over a shirt, and leaves the lower body open. An unlined jacket removes it entirely and exposes the internal seams, which then need finishing properly, so it is more work rather than less.
In Chiang Mai’s climate, half lining is the sensible default and unlined is worth considering.
Construction
Lighter construction throughout suits both the climate and the look. A soft shoulder with minimal padding, and a lighter canvas, keep the jacket from feeling like armour.
You lose some of the sharp architectural line of a business suit. In a hot climate that is a reasonable trade, and it reads as more appropriate anyway.
See the fabric guide for weights and wool for the fibre.
Next step
Walk in, or send your dates and we will tell you honestly what fits in the time you have.
Fabric
Cloth that suits it
Weight decides whether you will actually wear it. Ask for grams, not a Super number.
Worsted wool
Breathes, recovers from creasing overnight, holds a press. The default for a reason.220–250 g tropical
Wool-cashmere
Softer to the hand and more drape than plain worsted. A step up in feel, not in heat.~10% cashmere
Linen
The coolest thing you can wear, and it creases within minutes. A deliberate look.220–320 g
Explore
Related
Custom suits
Made-to-measure suits cut to your measurements in Chiang Mai. Business, wedding, three-piece, tuxedo, linen and summer weights. Half canvas as standard.
Linen suits
Made-to-measure linen suits in Chiang Mai. The coolest suit you can wear, and the one that creases the moment you sit down.
Wool
Why wool is the default suiting fibre: how it breathes, why it recovers from creasing, and which weights work in a hot climate.
Common questions
Are wool suits good for summer?
Yes, and better than most people expect. Wool wicks moisture away from the skin and an open-weave tropical wool moves air readily. The problem people associate with wool is weight, not fibre: a 240 gram open-weave wool is a summer cloth, while a 340 gram flannel is not.
What weight should a summer suit be?
Roughly 220 to 250 grams per metre in an open weave. Below about 220 grams the cloth becomes difficult to tailor cleanly and drapes poorly, so going lighter stops helping.
Does an unlined jacket make a real difference in heat?
Yes, a significant one. The lining is a full extra layer across the torso and back. Removing it, or reducing it to a half lining across the shoulders only, is one of the most effective comfort changes available and costs nothing in appearance.
What colour is best for a hot climate?
Lighter colours reflect more heat, so light grey, stone and mid-blue are more comfortable outdoors than charcoal or navy. The difference is real but smaller than the difference cloth weight and lining make.
Next step
Book a fitting
Walk in, or tell us when you are in Chiang Mai and we will hold a slot. First fittings take about 45 minutes.