Garments
Custom skirts
Custom Skirt, Chiang Mai: two measurements, treated as one by every size chart in existence.
Construction
Half canvas standard
Measured
Fifteen points
Fittings
At least one
Cloth
Chosen by weight
VIP Custom Tailor makes skirts to individual measurements in Chiang Mai, including pencil, A-line and tailored shapes. The advantage over ready-made is that waist and hip are fitted independently, so a skirt can be cut for a waist-to-hip difference that standard sizing treats as a single fixed ratio.
Custom Skirt, Chiang Mai: waist and hip are two numbers
Every size chart in existence assumes a fixed relationship between waist and hip.
If your waist-to-hip difference is larger than that assumption, a skirt that fits your hips will stand away from the small of your back at the waist. If it is smaller, a skirt that fits your waist will strain across the hip.
The usual fix is to buy for the hip and have the waistband taken in, which works badly once the skirt is fitted, because pulling in the waist drags the side seams out of vertical and the whole skirt begins to twist as you walk.
A drafted skirt takes both measurements as given. That is the entire advantage, and on a fitted skirt it is a large one.
Shape
Pencil. Straight and fitted through the hip, tapering slightly to the hem. The most demanding shape to fit and the one that most rewards being made properly. Needs a vent. See pencil skirts.
A-line. Fitted at the waist and flaring gently. More forgiving, more comfortable to move in, and cooler in heat because it does not sit against the leg.
Tailored straight. Between the two, with less taper than a pencil and less flare than an A-line. A good default.
Vents and movement
A fitted skirt below the knee needs a vent or a slit. This is mechanical rather than decorative.
Without one your stride is limited to the circumference of the skirt at the knee, which is uncomfortable, looks constrained, and puts all the strain on the centre back seam, which will eventually fail there.
A back vent is the standard answer and is nearly invisible when standing.
Lining
Worth having on anything fitted.
A lined skirt hangs cleanly, does not cling to tights or to skin, and slides over itself as you walk rather than catching. The downside in a hot climate is a second layer, which can be mitigated with a lighter lining fabric.
Cloth
Wool blends hold shape and are the traditional choice for tailored skirts. Cotton and cotton blends work well in heat and take structure. Linen is the coolest and the most crease-prone, which suits an A-line better than a pencil.
For anything worn as a suit with a matching jacket, see women’s tailoring and the fabric guide.
Next step
Walk in, or send your dates and we will tell you honestly what fits in the time you have.
Fabric
Cloth that suits it
Weight decides whether you will actually wear it. Ask for grams, not a Super number.
Wool crepe
Resists creasing across the lap from sitting, and holds a clean line.250–300 g
Cotton sateen
Takes structure and strong colour, and is cooler than wool.220–280 g
In this section
All custom skirts
Pencil skirts
Custom pencil skirts in Chiang Mai. Fitted through the hip with a real vent, a proper lining and a waistband that does not gape.
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Related
Pencil skirts
Custom pencil skirts in Chiang Mai. Fitted through the hip with a real vent, a proper lining and a waistband that does not gape.
Women's tailoring
Made-to-measure womenswear in Chiang Mai: suits, blouses, dresses, skirts, blazers and trousers fitted to your own proportions, not a size chart.
Custom blouses
Made-to-measure blouses in silk, cotton and linen, cut to your measurements in Chiang Mai. Fitted through the bust without gaping.
Common questions
Why do skirts fit at the hip but gape at the waist?
Because standard sizing assumes a fixed difference between waist and hip. If your waist-to-hip difference is larger than that assumption, a skirt that fits the hip will stand away at the back of the waist. It is a proportion problem, not a size problem, and taking in the waistband alone distorts the rest of the skirt.
What length is most useful?
Just below the knee is the most versatile, works in professional settings, and suits most heights. Above the knee is more casual. Midi lengths are more of a style decision than a practical one.
Does a pencil skirt need a vent?
Yes, if it is fitted and below the knee. Without a vent or a slit you cannot take a normal stride, and the seam will eventually give way at the point of most strain. A back vent is the standard solution.
What lining should a skirt have?
A lined skirt hangs better, does not cling, and is more comfortable against the skin. For anything fitted or in a lighter cloth, lining is worth having. In very hot weather a lighter lining fabric keeps the benefit without much of the heat.
Next step
Book a fitting
Walk in, or tell us when you are in Chiang Mai and we will hold a slot. First fittings take about 45 minutes.