Chosen for
Weight and weave
Tropical range
220–250 g
Overcoat range
400–550 g
Ask for
Grams, not Super
Wool Suit Fabric: wool is the default suiting fibre because it does three things no other fibre does together: it wicks moisture away from the skin, it recovers from creasing overnight, and it holds a pressed shape. A worsted wool between 230 and 260 grams is comfortable in tropical heat, despite wool’s reputation as a winter fibre.
Wool Suit Fabric: why it became the default
Wool is not the coolest fibre, nor the strongest, nor the cheapest. It is the default for tailoring because it is the only common fibre that is good at all of the things a suit needs at once.
It manages moisture. Wool absorbs a large amount of water vapour before it feels damp, and releases it into the air. In practice that means it does not go clammy against the skin the way cotton does.
It recovers. Wool fibres are naturally crimped and behave like small springs. Creases from sitting drop out overnight on a hanger. This single property is why a wool suit can be worn weekly for years and a linen one cannot.
It holds shape. Wool can be moulded permanently with heat and steam, which is what pressing actually is. A tailor shapes the chest of a jacket with an iron, and the wool remembers it.
It resists fire and odour, both of which matter more than people expect in a garment worn close to the body all day.
Worsted and woollen
Two ways of spinning, two families of cloth.
Worsted yarn is combed before spinning so all the fibres lie parallel. The result is smooth, strong, and clear-finished, with the weave clearly visible. Nearly all business suiting is worsted.
Woollen yarn is carded, not combed, so fibres lie in every direction, trapping air. The result is fuzzier, warmer, softer and less formal. Flannel and tweed are woollen-spun.
For a suit in Chiang Mai, you want worsted.
Weight for this climate
The number that matters more than any other.
- 220 to 250 g — tropical weight. The right range here.
- 250 to 280 g — year-round in temperate countries, wearable here in air conditioning.
- 280 to 340 g — autumn and winter suiting.
- 340 g and above — flannels and heavy cloths, unwearable in the tropics.
- 400 g and above — overcoat weight.
Pair a low weight with an open weave and wool becomes genuinely breathable. A tightly woven cloth at the same weight will be noticeably warmer.
Care
Hang it after wearing, on a wide hanger, and give it a day off. That is most of the job.
Brush rather than dry clean. Dry cleaning is harsher on wool than people assume, and twice a year is plenty for a regularly worn suit. Steam to remove creases rather than pressing hard, which flattens the shape a tailor built in.
See the fabric guide for how wool compares with the other fibres.
Next step
Walk in, or send your dates and we will tell you honestly what fits in the time you have.
Specification
Wool at a glance
Weight and construction decide whether you wear it. Everything else is refinement.
| Fibre | Sheep wool, worsted-spun for suiting |
|---|---|
| Typical suiting weight | 220–340 g per metre; 220–250 g is the tropical range |
| Crease recovery | Excellent. Creases drop out overnight on a hanger |
| Moisture | Absorbs up to roughly 30% of its weight before feeling damp |
| Best for | Suits, trousers, jackets. The default for almost everything |
| Care | Brush after wearing, rest a day between wears, dry clean rarely |
Explore
Related
Choosing cloth
How to choose suit fabric: fibre, weight in grams, weave and the Super numbers. Which cloths work in a hot climate and which do not.
Super 120s
Super 120s wool: the balance point between refinement and durability, and the most versatile choice for a suit worn regularly in a warm climate.
Summer suits
Lightweight summer suits made to measure in Chiang Mai. Open-weave wool that breathes like linen and recovers like a suit should.
Common questions
Is wool too hot for a tropical climate?
No, if the weight and weave are right. Wool wicks moisture away from the skin and releases it into the air, which is exactly what you want when perspiring. The reputation comes from heavy wools such as flannel and coating. A 240 gram open-weave tropical worsted is a warm-weather cloth.
What is the difference between worsted and woollen?
It refers to how the yarn is spun. Worsted yarn is combed so the fibres lie parallel, producing a smooth, strong, clear-finished cloth used for most suiting. Woollen yarn is carded rather than combed, so fibres lie in all directions, producing a fuzzier, warmer, softer cloth such as flannel and tweed.
Why does wool recover from creasing?
Wool fibres have a natural crimp and a coiled molecular structure that acts like a spring. When bent they gradually return to their original shape, especially with the help of ambient moisture. This is why a wool suit hung overnight looks fresh again and a cotton or linen one does not.
How long should a wool suit last?
A well-made wool suit worn once or twice a week and rested between wears will look good for many years. Wear appears first at the seat, elbows and cuff edges. Finer cloth with a higher Super number wears out faster than a robust mid-range one.
Next step
Book a fitting
Walk in, or tell us when you are in Chiang Mai and we will hold a slot. First fittings take about 45 minutes.