Construction
Half canvas standard
Measured
Fifteen points
Fittings
At least one
Cloth
Chosen by weight
Double Breasted Blazer, Chiang Mai: a double-breasted jacket has overlapping fronts fastened with two columns of buttons, which creates a strong diagonal line across the chest. It is worn buttoned at all times, because the overlap hangs open and shapeless when unfastened. The most common configuration is six buttons with two functional, written 6×2.
Double Breasted Blazer, Chiang Mai: the one rule
Keep it buttoned.
A double-breasted jacket has a wide front panel that wraps across the body and is held in place by the buttons. Undo them and that panel has nothing holding it, so it hangs open and the whole jacket loses its shape.
This includes sitting down. Single-breasted convention is to unbutton when you sit; double- breasted convention is not to. If you want a jacket you can open and relax in, choose single-breasted.
Some tailors add an interior anchor button, a jigger, which helps the inner panel stay flat. Worth asking for.
More flattering than its reputation
There is a persistent idea that double-breasted jackets suit only tall, thin people. It is not well supported.
The wrap creates a strong diagonal across the chest and the peak lapels push the eye upward and outward toward the shoulders. That combination broadens the shoulder line and narrows the apparent waist, which flatters a wide range of builds. The continuous unbroken front is also more forgiving through the middle than the open V of a single-breasted jacket.
Where it genuinely struggles is on very short torsos, where the button stance can crowd the proportions.
Button configuration
6×2 is the standard: six buttons showing, two that fasten. Balanced and traditional.
4×2 shows four buttons with two fastening. Cleaner and more contemporary.
6×1 fastens only at the lowest point, giving a long dramatic lapel roll. A strong look and less versatile.
Lapels and vents
Peak lapels, effectively always. The peak follows the diagonal the button stance establishes, and a notch lapel leaves that line unfinished.
For vents, double side vents suit the shape and let the jacket sit properly when you put your hands in your pockets.
In this climate
A double-breasted jacket is two layers of cloth across the front rather than one, so it is warmer by construction. In Chiang Mai that argues for a lighter cloth than you would otherwise choose, and for a half lining.
An unstructured double-breasted jacket in hopsack or a linen blend is a genuinely good warm-weather garment and reads as far more considered than a plain single-breasted one. See fabrics for weights.
Next step
Walk in, or send your dates and we will tell you honestly what fits in the time you have.
Fabric
Cloth that suits it
Weight decides whether you will actually wear it. Ask for grams, not a Super number.
Wool hopsack
Open basket weave with visible texture. The most useful warm-climate odd jacket cloth.240–280 g
Tweed
Too warm for Chiang Mai. Commission it here for a colder destination.350–450 g
Explore
Related
Custom blazers
Tailored blazers and odd jackets made to measure in Chiang Mai. The most useful garment you can own if you rarely need a full suit.
Sport coats
Tailored sport coats in Chiang Mai. Textured, softly constructed odd jackets built for warmth of character rather than boardroom formality.
Custom suits
Made-to-measure suits cut to your measurements in Chiang Mai. Business, wedding, three-piece, tuxedo, linen and summer weights. Half canvas as standard.
Common questions
Do you keep a double-breasted jacket buttoned?
Yes, always, including when seated. The overlapping front panel only holds its shape when fastened; unbuttoned it hangs open and the excess cloth flaps. This is the main practical difference from a single-breasted jacket, which is unbuttoned when sitting.
Is double-breasted flattering on larger builds?
Often more flattering than single-breasted. The diagonal wrap and the peak lapels draw the eye upward and across, and the clean unbroken front is more forgiving than a single-breasted jacket’s open V. The old advice that it suits only tall, slim people is not well founded.
What does 6x2 mean?
Six buttons visible on the front, of which two actually fasten. The upper pair are decorative and the lowest pair are usually non-functional. 6×2 is the most common and most balanced arrangement. 4×2 is a cleaner, more modern look with fewer buttons.
Should a double-breasted jacket have peak lapels?
Almost always. The peak lapel follows the upward diagonal of the button stance and completes the line. A notch lapel on a double-breasted jacket looks unresolved and is generally considered incorrect.
Next step
Book a fitting
Walk in, or tell us when you are in Chiang Mai and we will hold a slot. First fittings take about 45 minutes.